时尚界对胖姑娘释放出了一点善意
When Sal Perez, a stylist and costume designer, was dressing the actress Rebel Wilson for her role in the movie “Pitch Perfect 2,” he had to find clothes for 20 outfit changes. This was an even bigger challenge than it sounds. Ms. Wilson is a plus-size actress working in a less-than-zero world.造型师、服装设计师萨尔·佩雷斯(Sal Perez)在电影《完美音调2》(Pitch Perfect 2)中为女演员里贝尔·威尔森(Rebel Wilson)设计造型，他必须为她的角色找够20套服装。这个挑战比听起来的要难。威尔森穿大码服装，而在女演员的世界里，大部分人穿的都是超小号。
Mr. Perez ended up finding some items online and designing others, which were made in his costume workshop.
最后，佩雷斯在网上找到了一些衣服，自己又设计了一些，在自己的服装工作室里制作。
“Trying to find plus-size clothes that are fashionable and well made is very difficult,” he said. “I am horrified by some of the clothes I find in the stores. I don’t know anyone who enjoys wearing polyester. I think the fashion industry has to realize the potential the plus-size market has.”
“寻找时尚、制作精良的大码服装非常困难，”他说，“我在商店里找到的一些衣服把我吓坏了。我没见过谁喜欢穿涤纶服装。我觉得时装界必须意识到大码市场的潜力。”
Styles for plus sizes, which range from 14 to 24, have long been characterized by down-market, back-of-the-store racks of drab tent-dresses, garishly decorated blouses and polyester pants. The uniformly dark colors and generous silhouettes serve the sole purpose of covering up and deflecting attention from the body.
长期以来，14码至24码的大码服装大多是放在商店后面货架上的低档服装——乏味的松身连衣裙、花哨的女衬衣和涤纶裤。它们有着千篇一律的深色和宽松的剪裁，唯一的目的是遮住身体，减少人们的关注。
But a new crop of online boutiques, retailers and designers is trying to make plus-size styles more fashion forward. Instead of elastic-waist pants and muumuu dresses, these companies offer clothes that reflect the runways (think jumpsuits), surpass the smock (leather pants) and even show a little skin (crop tops).
但是一些新的在线时装精品店、零售商和设计师在努力让大码服装变得更时尚。这些公司提供的不是松紧带裤和宽大连衣裙，而是能反映秀台潮流的服装（比如连身裤）和超出宽松工作服范畴外的服装（比如皮裤），甚至是暴露一点肌肤的服装（比如露脐上衣）。
The plus-size customer is “really letting her hair down for the first time,” said Marie Jean-Baptiste, the founder and designer of Rue107, which sells form-fitting mesh dresses ($110) and purple metallic jumpsuits ($59, on sale from $89) in sizes S to 3X.
Rue107的创始人、设计师玛丽·让-巴普蒂斯特(Marie Jean-Baptiste)说，他们的服装让穿大码服装的顾客“第一次放松下来”。该公司销售修身网眼连衣裙（110美元）和紫色金属质感连身裤（59美元，原价89美元），尺码从S号到3X号。
Customers have clamored for more and better options. Last spring Sarah Chiwaya, 30, a lawyer in Manhattan, attended a fashion event at Saks Fifth Avenue. Captivated by a perforated leather midi skirt from Tibi, she was ready to spend. But the skirt was available only in small sizes.
顾客们早已发出呼声，要求拥有更多更好的选择。30岁的莎拉·奇瓦亚(Sarah Chiwaya)是曼哈顿的一名律师。去年春天，她要去萨克斯第五大道精品百货店参加一场时尚活动。她看上了Tibi的一条皮质打孔超短裙，打算破费一下。但是那条裙子只有小号。
“I would have bought it immediately if it were in my size, 16,” she said.
“如果有我的号，16号，我肯定马上买了，”她说。
Frustrated, Ms. Chiwaya turned to her blog, Curvily, and bemoaned the lack of options. She used a hashtag, #plussizeplease, that has been adopted by others across all sorts of social platforms like Tumblr, Pinterest, Instagram and Twitter.
沮丧的奇瓦亚在自己的博客Curvily上叹息选择太少。她加上了#plussizeplease（求大码），这个标签在各种社交平台上被广泛使用，比如Tumblr、Pinterest、Instagram和Twitter。
“I wanted it to be a way to show retailers the money they’re losing,” she said.
“我想通过这种方式告诉零售商他们正在让能到手的钱溜走，”她说。
The market, in fact, is robust. The average American woman wears a size 14, and women wearing size 14 and up account for 67 percent of the population, according to the industry analyst firm Plunkett Research Ltd. Last summer, the NPD Group reported that plus-size clothing sales grew more than 5 percent from May 2013 to April 2014, going from $16.7 billion to $17.5 billion.
实际上，这个市场很大。据行业分析公司Plunkett Research Ltd.称，美国女人的平均服装尺码是14码，穿14码及以上的女人占全体美国女性的67%。去年夏天，NPD集团报告称，从2013年5月至2014年4月，大码服装的销售额增长了5%以上，从167亿美元增长到了175亿美元。
That is perhaps why youthful-leaning, mass-market retailers like Asos, H & M, Mango, Wet Seal, ModCloth and Forever 21 have begun selling either an expanded size range or a dedicated plus-size line.
可能是由于这个原因，Asos、H&M、Mango、Wet Seal、ModCloth和Forever 21等面向年轻大众的零售商开始销售更多尺码的服装或者推出专门的大码服装系列。
“We work in the exact same way as Asos core brand,” said Natasha Smith, a buyer for the new line, Asos Curve, in London. “There’s nothing we wouldn’t try: hot pants, bodysuits.”
“我们的运作方式与Asos的核心品牌一模一样，”购买新系列Asos Curve的伦敦买家娜塔莎·史密斯(Natasha Smith)说，“我们什么都尝试：热裤、紧身衣裤。”
Several new companies are making plus-size their sole focus. One is Eloquii, which aims to do for the plus market what Zara has done in the mainstream market: offer customers options that mimic runway trends but at prices that are lower than those in boutiques and department stores.
有几家新公司专门做大码女装。其中一家是Eloquii，它的目标很像Zara在主流市场的做法：在大码市场领域内向顾客提供模仿秀台潮流但价格低于精品店或商场的服装。
Currently, Eloquii is showing items like a leopard-print baseball jacket ($138), a cashmere sweater with Breton stripes ($138) and faux leather culottes ($98).
目前，Eloquii正在展示豹纹棒球夹克（138美元）、布列塔尼条纹羊绒衫（138美元）和仿皮裤裙（98美元）。
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